The D44-22P-01 is a Chinese LED plate rated at 15W and operates directly from 230VAC with an integrated driver.
It was purchased to explore the configuration of LEDs with integrated driver, and this driver looks deceptively simple.
The chips are JZ1009AE, a LED current driver. The 22 2835 LEDs are 9V LEDs for a string voltage of 200V. Continue reading LED plate analysis – D44-22P-01
This article is about an inexpensive GU10 230V 7W LED lamp.
Like so much inexpensive Chinese lamp product, it has not markings on the exterior or the lamp (eg voltage, current, power), but the product was sold as 7W and the box had that printed on it.
The lamp failed after less than 100h service, switching on and off intermittently symptomatic of a heat related problem.
Above is the dismantled lamp. Interestingly the LED driver PCB has “Q-3-5*1W” etched into the board, so presumably it is actually a driver for 5 series 1W white LEDs. So much for the claimed 7W, LED product performance claims are often a fraud, more so when the Chinese are involved. Continue reading LED lamp failure analysis – GU10 230VAC 7W
I have recently purchased or attempted purchase of several nominally 18W LED circular plates and associated 230VAC drivers.
The circular LED plates all had 36 x 5730 nominally half watt white LEDs arranged as 18 parallel pairs in series.
It is difficult to find datasheets from reputable manufacturers of 5730 LED. Cree makes 5630 which are similar size (though different footprint) and also rated at nominally 0.5W.
Above is the V/I characteristic from Cree’s J series datasheet with an approximation of the 0.5W line superimposed in red. The V/I combination for 0.5W is at the intersection of the two lines, about 162mA and 3.08V. Continue reading Chinese LED ratings – LED plate drivers
This article describes the internals and basic test of a no-name Chinese 4′ T8 LED replacement.
The lamp is a Type B DEP (double ended power) configuration, cool white, it requires rewiring of a traditional magnetic ballast fitting or e-ballast fitting. Don’t attempt this unless you have the needed competencies.
It has no rating label, no information about its configuration on the lamp, no warnings about compatibility… so very Chinese.
The lamp is rated at 18W 1750lm, claimed life is 50,000h but you should take that with a grain of salt. The lamps cost $6.40 ea in a pack of 10, including delivery. They were well packed and the pins had a small plastic protector.
Above, the powered end of the LED strip and the LED driver partially withdrawn from the hollow aluminium extrusion. Continue reading Chinese T8 LED 4′ tube teardown
Some months ago I purchased a TKDMR TD2B LED tester.
Above is the tester. It comes with a 3 month warranty, FWIW. Continue reading TKDMR TD2B LED tester review
I recently purchased two packs of 2x Osram Substitube LED replacements for a T8 36W florescent tube. The price per tube was about double that of a T8 fluorescent, and claimed life was 30,000 hours.
Note that LED life is usually an estimate of the time for 50% failure. Curiously, Osram individual LEDs have lower lifetime estimates for single LEDs, strings of LEDs will have lower lifetime, and lifetime for say 5% failures would be even lower. On the basis of experience with LED lighting, it might be optimistic to think that most of these lamps will last at least 5,000h.
In the event, three of four tubes had broken glass (yes, they use a glass tube much like the T8 fluorescent tube… though not sealed at the ends), and the other was DOA, no light output.
The LED driver is attached to pins at one end of the lamp, and covered by a label over the glass. Note that there are several incompatible schemes used in T8 fluorescent replacement LEDs, the other scheme bonds the adjacent pins at each end of the lamp and connects line and neutral to opposite ends. Osram calls this a “Type A” connection, and as the name suggests if can be fitted to an ordinary magnetic ballast luminaire PROVIDED the original starter is replaced with Osram’s “LED starter” which is actually a HRC fuse of around 1A rating.
Above is the top view of the electronics. Continue reading Osram Substitube tear down
I purchased some CH2 terminal blocks on eBay. They were advertised as 250V AC, 10A, to suit 2.5mm^2 conductors.
Above is the seller’s pic of the terminal block.
– Fast wiring
– Prevents the wire from shorting out
– Free drilling screws, increase the speed of assembly
– Can completely replace electrical tape
– Cost savings
– Fast、efficient and safe
– Widely used in the wire connection，especially for LED Lighting Ceiling
– lamp dedicated wiring clip.
– Material: PP Flame Retardant Plastic
– Reed material: Manganese Steel Sheet
– Color: White
– Voltage: 220V
– Current: 10A
– Type: 2Pin Connector
– Style:Self-locking Cable Connector
– Temperature: -40 to 150 Degrees Celsius
– Wiring: Wiring Capacity From 0.5-2.5 Square Wire
– Size: CH-2：Approx. 20*17.5*13.5mm
Close inspection cause me concern for their performance, there is no current rating marked. The product is labelled KX-P2 and appears to be a product of Foshan Shunde Kaixiang Electrical Co Ltd, but the Chinese being great copyists, this may have come from another source. Continue reading Chinese CH2 terminal block (CH1 CH3)
I purchased a kit to convert a oyster luminaire to single colour LED on eBay. The kit was nominally 18W, supplied with the 5730 LED plate and driver module for about $10 incl shipping.
A cautionary note: do not play with these things unless you have the necessary competencies.
The thing was packed in nothing more than a plastic mailing bag and was bent in several places in transit from China. It was not usable in that state and some LEDs were not working so my money was refunded in full (after the usual tug-o-war eventually resolved with eBay intervention). It had to be straightened to be usable, but at the risk of damaging LEDs and possibly cracking or compromising the insulation layer.
Above, after flattening the back plate, nearly half the LEDs are not working. Continue reading Conversion of oyster luminaire to LED
This article describes a 230V AC power utility box containing a 6 function 20A LCD power meter, a 4000W rated phase control dimmer, fitted up as a 230V 10A device.
The power meter has displays 6 metrics:
- (real) power
- power factor
- energy (kWh)
Continue reading Power meter + dimmer
This article describes the programming sequences for a common Chinese 315/433MHz remote relay which works with the common EV1527 transmitter.
The EV1527 should not be confused with high security protocols, the transmitter has burned into it four fixed supposedly relatively unique codes (in a space of 1 million code possibilities) and sends the burned in code associated with the transmitter key each time it is operated. This should not be confused with rolling code systems such as KeeLoq. This information is not usually disclosed by sellers.
These are usually supplied with little or no instructions, or bad online translations that are quite misleading. I dare say sellers have refunded money in lots of cases due to user confusion about programming them or compatible transmitters. This information might assist owners to find a working solution.
Above is an example remote relay (~$3 on eBay), they are available with a number of channels and may look physically different but use the same or similar firmware. Note that though the relay on this one is rated at 10A AC, that rating is for resistive load and it is rated at 5A AC for an inductive load (PF=0.4). Continue reading Programming a certain type of Chinese 315/433MHz EV1527 compatible remote relay