## Chinese batteries – replacements for Makita 1220 battery pack

Buying Chinese batteries is a minefield. Experience has been that they rarely meet specified capacity, and less that 10% of specified capacity is not that unusual.

So, with that background I searched eBay for replacement batteries for a Makita drill / driver. The current pair of batteries are Chinese source, purchased about 5 years ago, label rating is 2.0Ah, and measured capacity now is 1.3-1.4Ah… which is not too bad, they were 1.7-1.8Ah when new (yes, below spec).

## Controller module

The controller used is a 220VAC MH1230A.

Above is an internal view of the controller. Importantly it has a relay rated at 240V 30A, and 15A at PF=0.4. The datasheet rates the relay for a 2HP (1.5kW) motor. It uses a ‘conventional’ power supply, the brown component is the power transformer. Most similar products use inadequate relays and have low grade switched mode power supplies that create RF noise. Continue reading A DIY thermostat based on the MS1230A controller

## Operation instructions

Press “set” button for 3s get into the procedure menu code mode, display the code “HC”. Press up or down for cyclical selection of parameter code of “HC-CP-LA-HA-PU-CA”.
To enter a code, press the “Set” button, press the up button or the down button to change to the desired data and press “Set” to save and exit;
Control the temperature set: press “Set” button, display blink and it is the default setting. Press up or down to change the data and save automatically. (press on up or down for 2s or more to increase the adjusting speed ) heating control: when the temperature control mode ( code is HC) was H, e.g. the setting control temperature is 28 C , slewing range of temperature is 2 C , when the environment temperature >= setting temperature (28’C), the relay will switch off and stop the output load; when the environment temperature <=setting temperature (28C ) – slewing range of temperature (2 C ) and set “delayed start” before, the reply will switch on and output load again, (if the delayed start function doesn’t need, set the delayed start (code PU) to 0)
refrigeration control: when the temperature control mode (code is HC) was C, e.g. the setting control temperature is 28’C, slewing range of temperature is 2 C, when the environment temperature <=after setting “delayed start” time, the relay will switch on and sart output load.(suggest “delayed start” time to the default setting time to protecting the compressor, please set the (code PU) to) if it doesn’t need). Continue reading MH1210A, MH1230A operating instructions

## Photo Voltaic Array – unbelievable efficiency from Chinese sellers

A friend recently purchased one of the many PV arrays advertised on eBay only to be disappointed.

A common metric used to evaluate cell technologies is conversion efficiency with 1000W/m^2 insolation. Most popular products are monocrystalline silicon technology which achieves 18-25% efficiency on an assumed 1000W/m^2 insolation.

If we look carefully at the above panel advertised as 200W, the active PV area is less than the frame size, probably $$A=0.93 \cdot 0.63=0.59 m^2$$. We can calculate efficiency $$\eta=\frac{p_{out}}{1000 A}=\frac{200}{1000 \cdot 0.59}=34\%$$, nearly double expected efficiency for monocrystalline cells. Continue reading Photo Voltaic Array – unbelievable efficiency from Chinese sellers

## Oyster conversion – #2 – 24W

Conversion of oyster luminaire to LED discussed a first conversion effort. This article describes a conversion of a oyster that used a T8 32W flourescent tube.

First step was to strip the magnetic ballast, power factor correction capacitor (if fitted), clips for the tube, labels that are misleading, and to check / provide the needed protective earth connection.

The LED plate used is that reviewed at LED plate analysis – 24W round plate with driver but with a new driver that delivers 260mA (though rated at 300mA).

Above is the 24W LED plate. The plate has 48 0.5W 5730 LEDs in a 24×2 configuration. If we allow that the 24W rating is total input power, driver loss is typically around 2W so the LEDs themselves will draw 22W. We expect that the voltage at 22W will be around 80-85V, and will require ~275mA current. The original LED driver supplied (180mA) is not capable of that current and was discarded. A nominally 300mA LED driver was procured for about $10 for five, and they fall short, delivering 260mA but that is good enough for this implementation. Continue reading Oyster conversion – #2 – 24W ## LED plate analysis – 24W round plate with driver This article reviews a 24W LED plate and driver commonly sold on eBay and Aliexpress for around$12.

Above is the 24W LED plate from the sellers pics. The plate has 48 0.5W 5730 LEDs in a 24×2 configuration. If we allow that the 24W rating is total input power, driver loss is typically around 2W so the LEDs themselves will draw 22W. We expect that the voltage at 22W will be around 80-85V, and will require ~275mA current. It is shown here with a 220mA LED driver or 80% of what is required for 22W. Continue reading LED plate analysis – 24W round plate with driver